Avenger Penguin

I awoke from a short, but much needed snooze on the train to find us far removed from Glasgow city centre geopraphically and aesthetically. Sporadic raindrops spotted the windows as we moved out of a small raincloud back into the embrace of the sunshine.

The mixture of the clouds and the breaks therein was reflected beautifully in the mountaineous view to the North of our path. Some peaks wore a blanket of cloud and faded from sight whilst others stood bright, highlighted by nature as the breaks in the cover opted to light them up with the sunlight.

Somewhere between these sat a rainbow, arcing from cloud to sun -- from one world to another -- and almost tying together the ambivalence in the weather to form a complete visual scene.

The Journey

I had left Peterborough to start the journey at 10:45 in the morning. Whilst the mainline trains to Edinburgh or Glasgow are quick, one can spend nearly as long again on the final leg through the countryside from Glasgow to Oban. Consequently, it is not really possible to leave most parts of England in time to catch one of the daily ferry crossings to Barra or South Uist.

Certainly, when time is plentiful, it is no hardship to enjoy a night in Oban sitting by the harbour with a haggis supper.

A Train Divided

The train pulled up to Crianlarich where it was set to divide in half. Our portion proceeded to Oban whilst the other made up the services to Fort William and Mallaig. I took a moment to check on my bike; it was still firmly secure, hanging from a peg at the end of the carriage. It appears First Scotrail are able to accommodate six bicycles hanging vertically in such a manner and yet again I noted that it is normally the older trains that have such efficient provisions. All newer trains over the last few days have had me attempting an awkward spaceshare with pushchairs and wheelchairs.

A short while later and a stop further along the line was the aptly-named Lochawe. The village sits on the edge of the stunning Loch Awe which certainly provided an awe-inspiring view from the train. It was a delightfully opportune moment to see the refreshment trolley making its way down the aisle -- in my mind, coming just for my benefit so that I may enjoy the views of the water with a cider and a cup-a-soup.

We continued to chase the setting sun in the West, crossing cascading streams, snaking through trees and around natural obstacles be they high or wet. The low sun shone with a brilliant yellow, dominating its part of the sky, reducing the peaks below to silhouettes and carving an erratic, dark skyline in the sunlight.

Approaching Oban

A curious investigation with Google Maps indicated we were only to pass Loch Etive and then the train would be at the coast and a mere few minutes from following it around to the terminus at Oban. I could see the arrow already placed there for the hotel in which I would be staying that night and I hoped they wouldn't mind my arrival being almost 10pm.

I tried to commit to memory the short walk to the hotel and vaguely formed a plan in my mind involving chippy, pub and wifi.

Oban

The trees parted as the train pulled up to the seaside town of Oban. The sun had moved off the mountains and now sat behind the nearby isle of Kerrera, its profile rising as a shadow out of the bay.

I had chosen a B&B a little up the very steep hill Oban sits upon as the town recedes back from the harbour, so I was only able to cycle up about half the way before switching to foot.

The owner very kindly offered to keep my bike in the basement as I was checking in. I was in town with a pint of a local beer -- Oban Bay's Skelpt Lug -- by half ten, but the plan of a chippy was looking difficult so late in the evening. I still never like to give up hope...